What is PC filament?
PC stands for polycarbonate. You probably encounter it all the time without realizing it: the transparent panels in bus shelters, headlight lenses, motorcycle helmet visors, and safety goggles. Wherever something needs to be both transparent and indestructible, you'll find polycarbonate.
As filament for 3D printing, it shares those same properties. It is strong, extremely impact-resistant, and can withstand heat that would cause PETG and ABS to fail long ago.
PC is an amorphous plastic. This means its molecules are arranged randomly, without a fixed structure. A practical consequence of this is that it doesn't have a sharp melting point; it gradually softens as it gets hotter. This makes printing it much more predictable than materials that do have a crystalline structure, such as nylon or PPS.
You will also often encounter PC as a blend, such as PC-ABS or PC-CF (with carbon fiber). These variants are much easier to print than pure PC, though they do sacrifice some of its strongest properties. More on that later.
What makes PC so strong?
It is virtually indestructible.
This is what polycarbonate is known for. Its impact resistance is incredibly high: you can hit it with a hammer and it will bend or dent instead of shattering.
That makes it an interesting choice for parts that might take a beating. Think of a drone housing, a protective cover for a machine, or a holder that frequently gets knocked off the table. Where PLA breaks into two pieces and PETG cracks, PC gives way and springs back.
It can handle significant heat
The glass transition temperature of PC is around 147 °C. That is the temperature at which a plastic changes from hard and rigid to soft and rubbery. In practice, this means a part will hold its shape up to about 110 to 130 °C, depending on how much load it is under.
For comparison: PLA gives up around 55 °C, PETG around 85 °C, and ASA around 100 °C. PC is well above that. A car interior in direct sunlight, a part near an engine, or a mold that needs to go into an oven: that’s where PC shines. See also: what is the most heat-resistant filament.
It can be translucent
PC is crystal clear by nature, but you never quite get that back with 3D printing; you print layer by layer, and there are always microscopic air pockets between those layers that scatter light. However, with thin walls, a high print temperature, and few layers, you can get pretty far: from translucent to milky clear.
For light covers, viewing windows, and lamp housings, that is often just enough. If you want it truly clear, post-processing helps. Read: how to smooth a 3D print.
It is both rigid and strong
Many materials are either rigid or tough. PC is both. Its tensile strength is high, as is its stiffness, yet it doesn't break easily. That combination is rare and exactly why it is used in structural components.
Also handy: PC is well-suited for snap-fit joints and hinged parts. It bends without fatiguing immediately.
What are the downsides of PC?
It absorbs moisture like a sponge
This is by far the biggest hurdle. PC is highly hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture from the air. And quickly, too—leave a roll out for a day and you'll already notice it.
That moisture evaporates in your hot nozzle, causing it to crackle and sputter. Your print will turn out cloudy, porous, full of bubbles, and significantly weaker. You'll often even see steam coming out of the nozzle.
The solution is simple but not optional: dry it before printing, and feed it from a dry box while printing. More on this in identifying and fixing damp filament.
It warps
PC shrinks significantly while cooling, which leads to warping: the corners of your print lift up and detach from the build plate. An enclosure, a closed cabinet for your printer, is essentially mandatory for PC. Without one, your larger prints will almost certainly fail.
It sticks too well to your build plate
This is a funny one: PC adheres so strongly to glass and PEI plates that it can pull chunks out of your build plate when you try to remove it.
Always use a release agent. A simple glue stick on the plate works perfectly; it dissolves in water and lets your print come off cleanly.
Chemicals are a weak point
This is where PC loses out to many other materials. Acetone damages it, IPA (rubbing alcohol) can cause hairline cracks, and many cleaning agents leave marks. Will your part come into contact with solvents, oils, or fuels? Then PPS or PETG is a better choice.
It yellows in the sun
Without UV stabilization, PC turns yellow when exposed to sunlight for long periods and becomes brittle over time. The polycarbonate panels you see outdoors all have a protective coating. Filament usually doesn't.
Does your part need to stay outside permanently? Then choose ASA. See also: the 3 best 3D printing materials for outdoor use.
The best print settings for PC
Settings vary by brand. Use this as a guideline and always check your filament's datasheet.
Nozzle temperature: 260–310 °C. Start around 280 °C. PC only bonds its layers well if you print hot enough, so when in doubt, go up rather than down. You will need an all-metal hotend . A hotend with a Teflon liner starts to degrade above 250 °C, and you don't want that in your print (or in your lungs).
Bed temperature: 100–120 °C. A higher temperature keeps the bottom of your print warm longer and limits warping. Use a glue stick as a release agent, not as an adhesive.
Enclosure: yes. A closed cabinet keeps the heat in and drafts out. It doesn't necessarily need to be heated, but it must be closed. Printing something small? You might get away without one. For anything larger than a fist, you won't.
Cooling: off, or a maximum of 10–20%. Rapid cooling weakens the bond between your layers. With PC, that layer adhesion is exactly where the strength comes from, so keep the fan low.
Print speed: 30–50 mm/s. Printing slowly gives the material time to bond properly to the previous layer.
Drying: 4 to 6 hours at 80–100 °C. Do this before every print, even with a freshly opened roll.
Brim or raft. A brim, an extra edge around the first layer, increases the contact surface and helps immensely against peeling at the corners.
Infill: 20–50%. For most functional parts, 25 to 30% is fine. More infill mainly means more stiffness, not automatically more impact resistance.
PC compared to other filaments
PC vs. PETG
PETG is easier, cheaper, and handles moisture and chemicals better. For the vast majority of functional prints, PETG is simply the smarter choice.
Choose PC when PETG falls short: if the part exceeds 85 °C, or if it needs to withstand heavy impacts. If your application falls below that, save yourself the hassle and print with PETG.
PC vs. ABS
These two are similar in terms of print behavior; both are prone to warping and both prefer an enclosure. However, PC is stronger in almost every way: higher temperature resistance, higher tensile strength, and significantly better impact resistance.
What ABS does have going for it: it's cheaper, easier to print, and you can smooth it with acetone vapor. For decorative or budget-sensitive jobs, ABS makes more sense. For parts that need to perform, PC is the better choice. See also ABS vs. PETG.
PC vs. nylon
Nylon is tougher and has low natural friction, making it perfect for gears, plain bearings, and moving parts. However, it is less rigid and absorbs even more moisture than PC.
PC is stiffer, more dimensionally stable, and more heat-resistant. In short: use nylon for parts that slide and rotate, and PC for parts that need to hold their shape under pressure.
PC vs. PPS
Once chemicals, fuels, or temperatures above 130 °C come into play, PC can no longer hold up. That’s when you turn to PPS. It is significantly more expensive and requires a printer with a heated chamber. PC is tougher and can be translucent; PPS wins on heat and chemical resistance.
PC blends: the easy middle ground
PC-ABS combines the strength of PC with the printability of ABS. Less warping, less moisture-sensitive, and still significantly stronger than standard ABS. You do sacrifice some temperature resistance, though.
PC-CF (with carbon fiber) is much stiffer and warps less, but it also becomes more brittle, meaning you lose that characteristic impact resistance. And you need a hardened nozzle , because carbon fiber will wear down a brass nozzle in no time.
For many applications, a blend is the smartest choice. You get 80% of the performance with half the hassle.
What is PC used for?
Protective covers and housings. Machine guards, drone shells, enclosures for electronics. Anything that needs to withstand an impact while staying securely in place.
Light covers and viewing windows. Thanks to its translucency and heat resistance, you can use PC close to a light source without it deforming.
Parts that get hot. Interior car components, mounts near a heating element, or a prototype being tested in a warm environment.
Molds, jigs, and fixtures. Production tools that need to remain rigid and withstand heat during gluing or painting.
Structural parts. Brackets, clamps, and connectors that are under load and where failure is not an option. Also suitable for spare parts.
PC FAQ
Is PC stronger than PETG?
Yes, in almost every way. It has higher tensile strength, much higher impact resistance, and a temperature resistance that is about 40 to 50 degrees higher. However, PETG is easier to print, cheaper, and more resistant to moisture and chemicals. Stronger isn't automatically better; it depends on your application.
Is polycarbonate safe? I've heard something about BPA.
That's correct; polycarbonate is made with bisphenol A (BPA). Under normal use of a dry part, this isn't an issue, but BPA can leach out when in contact with hot or acidic liquids. Therefore, do not use PC for cups, containers, or anything else that comes into contact with food. Looking to print food-safe items? Look for an explicitly certified PETG instead.
Can I print PC on my own printer?
You need an all-metal hotend that can reach at least 300 °C, a bed that goes to 100 °C or higher, and a closed enclosure. More and more printers meet these requirements. Without an enclosure, you might manage to print small parts, but anything larger will almost certainly warp.
Why is my PC print cloudy and weak?
Almost always moisture. PC absorbs water from the air very quickly, and that water evaporates in the nozzle. The result is a print full of microscopic bubbles: cloudy, porous, and much weaker than intended. Dry your filament for 4 to 6 hours at 80–100 °C and print directly from a dry box.
Is PC waterproof?
In its solid form, PC barely absorbs water and is perfectly suitable for waterproof applications, provided you print with enough walls and high infill. Note: since you print layer by layer, it is never 100% waterproof. Also, prolonged contact with hot water or cleaning agents can cause hairline cracks. See also: which filament is waterproof.
How do you glue PC?
Dichloromethane or a specialized polycarbonate glue provides the strongest bond because it slightly dissolves the surface and fuses it together. Two-component epoxy also works well and is much safer to use. Super glue will stick, but it creates a more brittle bond. More on this in gluing 3D prints together.
Need something printed in PC?
Do you think polycarbonate is the right material for your project? Upload your file to our 3D print price calculator and see what it costs in under a minute.
Still deciding between PC, PETG, or ABS? Use our material selection guide or request a free printability check . We’ll take a look with you, no strings attached, to see which material best suits your application.
Curious about the general costs of 3D printing? Read: how much does 3D printing cost.
